We departed from Rome with no problems and arrived in sunny Sardinia. From this point, our adventure felt more like a romantic comedy where everything goes wrong. I'll recount our troubled tale, but hopefully I'll still be able to communicate how much fun we had and what a bonding experience this trip became. We rented a little Smart car for fun and headed to our B&B to check in.
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| Oh no! We flew past our destination! |
Our place was out in the middle of nowhere. The roads were lonely and wide; there was sandy orange stone and tufts of dry grass for miles. The owner of the B&B, Graziano, was thoroughly delightful.... but we had no common language. Thankfully all my studies of Latin-based tongue paid off; somehow we deduced how much we owed him and that there is no breakfast in September with mixed French, Spanish, and Italian. So I guess you can say we stayed in a B&. He also helped us find a restaurant nearby for dinner. Since we were hungry, we tossed our bags in the room and went straight to the local pizza place. We ordered a delicious plate of local cheeses and charcuterie (heavily influenced by the boars on the island~they make a delicious sausage). We sampled some island brews (beer, not coffee), and ate a ridiculous amount of pizza. We did all of this in the dark. For some reason, the power kept going out at the restaurant. Thank goodness we were in Italy where all good pizza is perfectly baked in wood burning ovens.
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| ichnusa is ichtasty |
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| Not exactly a candlelit dinner... those are the flood lights that prevented us from depending solely on the moon. |
We had some good plans for day 2 in Sardinia. We got up to take a jog and discovered that we were stationed in the midst of a large neighborhood of vineyards. It seems the harvest had already begun as many of the workers in the fields seemed puzzled by the two English speakers running by their rural workplace. I could jog that little area everyday and be quite content. We then set out to do a little exploration by car and try to take a peak at Neptune's Grotto.
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| Glorious grapes! |
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| We (read: I) didn't wear appropriate shoes to explore Neptune's Grotto. |
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| There is not a bad picture taken on this island. Not possible. |
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| Our trusty tiny car~ I look like a giant! |
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| Don't you want to go for a dip? |
For the afternoon we were set to take a ferry from a nearby port to Corsica. When we arrived at the dock for our ferry, we found it was not meant to be. You'd have to have been living under a rock to have missed the incredible number of strikes which have occurred throughout France the last couple of months. On this particular day, all French transportation workers were all for la greve. This even included French ferry navigators who work between the Italian & French islands. I was distraught, but Kyle had the presence of mind to get a refund on our tickets and patronize an Italian company who had not abandoned their boat posts. This meant a later ferry from another port farther north on the coast. Thus we had to mix up our hotel arrangements as we'd be arriving in the evening 3 hours away from our hotel. Kyle took care of it all; he is so patient. We drove to port #2 for the day and had enough time for a cappuccino before our departure. Kyle's phone rang with an unknown number. The new hotel he booked for the night didn't actually have any rooms available. *sigh* We hunted down an internet cafe and found another hotel to book so that we wouldn't have to sleep in the Smart car on our European honeymoon. Thankfully for the rest of this day, everything went smoothly.
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| A floating parking lot! Seriously, "ferry" doesn't seem to adequately describe what this machine can do. |
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| Corsica~we've arrived. |
We were back in France! Something about traveling to exotic places yet still being able to communicate is a great comfort. Corsica looks very similar to Sardinia, but it felt great to be back among the French. Sadly, we woke up to a cool, rainy gray day. Just when we thought we could enjoy a day at the beach... Alas, that doesn't spoil our fun. We went out and got coffee and ice cream for lunch then went for a good walk at the beach where we found such delightful treasures.
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| Out of the rain with a lovely view |
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| ...and who needs sunshine? |
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| This little number is supposed to be a Corsican specialty. They are made with chestnut flour but aren't the most delish. |
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| We explored rocky paths and took crooked self-timed photos.... |
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| ...saw wind surfers.... |
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| ...and kite surfers.... |
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| ... and found a cat! |
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| Kyle even liked her. He named her Suity (pronounced sweetie) because it's like the French word to follow. That's what she did; she followed us. |
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| Sometimes we followed her. |
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| We also enjoyed a Corsican beer. This is Kyle's artsy picture. A good day was had by all. |
The rain couldn't be the only thing to thwart us this day~that would have been too simple. We got a call from America; my dad called to let us know we needed to change our flight plans because our day was filling up quick. We were set to return back to the U.S. in less than a week so it meant rearranging our plans for moving out of our dorm and saying farewell to friends in Metz. Again, Kyle masterfully filled all the gaps, and we went back to enjoying our honeymoon trip.
We had been staying in Bonifacio which has so much to see. There are beaches, the beautiful port, tons of great restaurants, and plenty of shopping. All of this exists in what feels like two cities~the upper and the lower. We had only spent time in the lower part because it was easy to walk to from our hotel. We spent our second day in town exploring the upper level.
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| It was chilly but totally worth an uphill hike. |
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| What a place for Christians to worship. I'm struggling with coveting... |
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| Homes on the hill |
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| Crazy curvy port |
Kyle went all out on our next stop~a breathtaking B&B (with breakfast in September) in Porto Vecchio. I wish we had stayed there from the day we departed from Rome. In addition to staying in the most gorgeous place ever, the sun finally came out and we could finally go to the beach! We soaked in a lot of sun, read a lot, and enjoyed a Corsican beer. I do have to note that it was a bit windy~ or maybe it was terribly windy. Not a bad thing on a warm day, but it is definitely unpleasant to be pelted by stinging sand at the beach. We found sanctuary from the grainy assault behind some large beach rocks. No problems. For dinner we went to a really cool restaurant where the menu changed each day based on what the chef was interested in cooking and what was available at the market. The menu was written on a large chalkboard that the waitress carried from table to table for patrons to make their selection. Kyle and I opted to get an appetizer and entree to split. It wasn't until we were about to enjoy our kirs when we noticed some small print on the chalkboard~ non CB (meaning no credit/debit cards). Yet again we were in a pickle as we had a very small amount of cash on us. We were about to pay for our drinks and depart when the waitress insisted that we could eat today and pay tomorrow. I felt like Wimpy from Popeye~ "I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for delicious shrimp pasta dish today." Crisis averted (though we went to an ATM after dinner to pay for the lovely meal~ not a quick task when the closest ATM was a 30 minute drive away... crazy island life).
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| My bud + books + beer + beach = best day ever |
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| Since you can't photograph the wind, you can at least show it's violent wake. Exhibit A: restaurant sign knocked over covered in sand. |
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| Ah, who cares about the wind? |
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| This B&B was my favorite. Can you believe that's our view? |
Breakfast~the word alone inspires happiness. French breakfasts are usually yogurt, baguette, fresh butter and jam, orange juice, and plenty of coffee. Simple bliss! We got a little something extra with our breakfast~ bad news. We have ventured into the absurd with vacation obstacles at this point. That wind I mentioned yesterday was none other than the legendary and terrifying
Mistral. I had learned about it in my French culture class and how it wreaks havoc all over Provence. Never in a million years would I expect it to interrupt our trip to an island in the sun. The lady who owned the B&B informed us no ferries would be braving the waters for a few days because it's too dangerous with the winds. No kidding~these natural ports are surrounded by imposing rocky cliffs. For Kyle and me, we knew we were trapped. Here we had an Italian Smart car which had to be returned to the airport in Sardinia as well as a serious deadline to be back to Metz for moving out and then Paris to fly back to the U.S. Like, this was Sunday and we were going to fly back to the states on Wednesday. Cutting it a little close, I'd say. Just to make sure we knew how seriously impossible it'd be to leave the island, the wind decided to kick it up a notch. We stayed in our beautiful room all day long and read in bed. I've never seen or heard anything like it, but now I truly know the fear the 3 little pigs must have felt.
After many prayers and not the most restful night of sleep, we drove to the port in the hopes that the ferry would arrive and carry us and our tiny Smart car back to Italian soil. We waited~ no one at the port knew definitively whether or not it would make the crossing. The clock kept ticking; our departure time came and went. Then. We. Heard. The. Fateful. Sound. Of. A. FOGHORN!! A large ferry came into the port, unloaded it's cargo and passengers, and it was our turn to board! They couldn't have dragged us off that boat if it were on fire~we were going back to Italy. We had a long ride back and met some lovely Canadians who were retired teachers (all French speakers). Back in Santa Teresa, we drove the car back onto solid Italian ground and happily set out to Castelsardo where we would stay one more night before returning home.
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| Let me on that boat! |
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| We're all aboard and headed back to Sardinia. |
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| Adieu Corsica. |
Kyle again chose a beautiful place for us to stay, and the only hiccup we faced in this town was that many restaurants weren't open on Monday for dinner. No biggie. We loved our last day on the island~a great breakfast, beautiful weather, great conversations, lots of thank you prayers to God, and the best way to bid farewell to Europe. It was just the best to get a week of time with just Kyle without any obligations to just be together and reflect on the incredible year we shared in France.
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| No complaints here. |
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| A little poolside sunbathing before our flight. Farewell, paradise. |
Best moment of the trip? You see a small house in the middle of nowhere with the word "formaggi" painted on the side. You say to yourself, "Self, it says cheese, but does it mean there is cheese within?" Well, I have a bold husband who has a weakness for pecorino romano....
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| Would you be tempted to enter? |
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| This is how much cheese you can get for 7 euros. No knives, just spoons. |